Dreams do come true...paddling the Rio Baker

Looking up at the confluence Baker and Neff - Sebastian Hennig

For many years now it has been my dream to paddle the Rio Baker down in Patagonia, Chile.  After 2 trips down to Chile where, due to commitments with World Class Academy, I was unable to journey further south than the Futaleufu and with the threat of a dam imminent I thought I had lost the opportunity to paddle this unique river.  However, thanks to the work of opposition groups the “Patagonia sin Represas” campaign has managed to put a stop to the progress of the dam…for now.  This January I was able to join old British paddling buddies Lee Royle and Rory Woods along with a new friend Sebastian Hennig from Norway on an epic trip down to Patagonia and finally got to enter the imposing canyons of the Rio Baker.

The Rio Baker drains the Lago General Carrera, the second deepest lake in South America through Lago Bertrand.  Driving along this huge lake you start to get the impression that you must be heading to a river of significant size and the butterflies begin!  My biggest fear heading to the Baker was that I would arrive and be too scared to paddle it, but when we drove up to the first canyon, which runs alongside the famous Carretera Austral, I was happy that I could see the lines and was excited to paddle them!  We arrived quite late in the afternoon and so spent our time scouting out the put-ins and takeouts as well as taking a good look at the ‘Salto Baker’ and the first canyon from the bankside.  We found a lovely campsite near the sketchy bridge which is a potential takeout for those who only want to paddle the first and second canyons and made the plan that Rory, Lee and I would paddle the next day from Lago Bertrand down to the bottom of the 3rd Canyon.

Cooking dinner at the sketchy bridge - Rory Woods

It was nice to have paddled the stretch down from the Baker’s source at Lago Bertrand as you get to warm up on the short but fun rafting session but it does mean paddling a good bit of flatwater too.  We got some good beta from the local rafting crew in Puerto Bertrand on where exactly to take out after the 3rd canyon as this wasn’t too clear from the guides and we hadn’t managed to figure it out the day before and they also helped us disinfect our boats for didymo as we had come straight from the Futa.  The rafting section down is very straightforward but you already begin to appreciate the volume of the river, and this is before the Rio Neff enters and nearly doubles the volume!  After getting the hang of the boils on the flat bits we arrived at Salto Baker, the first significant rapid on the Baker and also popular tourist attraction.  Here most of the water heads over on river right into a ginormous hole that we really didn’t fancy.  We portaged the first half of the drop as the chances of being washed into the mega-hole seemed rather high and ran a sneak line river left which is a fun double boof, uncharacteristically creeky for the Baker.  Now all we had to do was head downstream into the first canyon.

Me on Salto Baker - Rory Woods

As the Rio Neff enters just below Salto Baker the already considerable volume increases and the beautiful turquoise blue of the water is changed by the silty glacial run-off of the Neff.  Heading into the first canyon the butterflies begin to flutter and we decided to have a quick scout from bankside as we could already tell things would be a lot bigger than they had appeared from the road.  As we were scouting we glanced up to see a huge Andean Condor perched on the opposite wall of the canyon surveying us and the rapids below, it’s knowing glance and the way it followed us as we progressed paddling down the canyon gave us the ominous feeling that it was expecting a feast!  The others kindly let me head in first and I entered the first rapid, the smallest in the first canyon.  I had a good line taking a tongue just right of a big hole on the left with angle to avoid the huge crashing diagonals afterwards.  Stoked with my line and with the adrenaline pumping I floated down the short, boily respite and into the second rapid.

Lee entering the 1st rapid of the 1st canyon - Rory Woods

The second rapid of the first canyon is the biggest on the river, and quite possibly the biggest rapid I’ve run in my life.  It was difficult to scout this one from bankside without going for a long walk, heading in straight from the first rapid I entered a little bit further right than intended riding up a gigantic curler that feeds into a crushing hole.  Then I rounded the corner of the rapid and was faced by a wall of water that took my boat a few seconds to ascend.  The second wave violently surged tossing me into the air and upside down, the adrenaline blasting through my veins I knew that any swim/deck implosion here could end very badly so focused for the roll.  I continued getting tossed back and forth and once more upside down before the end of the rapid and caught an eddy to watch the two behind.  

Rory celebrating at the bottom of the 2nd rapid - Sebastian Hennig

That rapid had been bigger than what we could have imagined from purely scouting and we still had one large one to go before we were out the first canyon.  The condor keeping his silent vigil from the cliff above we headed on down; the final rapid of the canyon has an colossal hole at the top on the left and at the bottom right crashes into the wall creating a swirling, steaming eddy which didn’t look like fun.  Cutting as close as possible to the hole and driving right to left I safely arrived in the eddy at the bottom and waited for Lee and Rory to arrive before celebrating a successful descent of the first canyon.  

Me on the final rapid of the 1st Canyon - Rory Woods

Leaving the canyon also means leaving the road and whatever psychological safety it offers.  There is one more large rapid before entering the second canyon where on the main line you dodge another significant hole or take a fun boof on the chicken line.  We tried both on separate runs.  The second canyon has no major rapids but keeps you on your toes the whole way down with raging boils and remolinas (whirlpools) the size of a small house.  On most rivers kayakers see eddies as points of rest and respite and will often enter them for a chance to gather their thoughts…on the Rio Baker you find yourself sprinting like mad from the Witches Cauldrons that bubble up on the sides of the river off the canyon walls.  With a bit of relief and feeling thoroughly exhilarated we arrived at the sketchy bridge where Sebastian was ready waiting with some food to re-fuel before we ventured down to the third and final canyon.

The mellow paddle down from the bridge to the third canyon gives you a chance to appreciate the beautiful setting of this river which is located in an unusually arid part of Patagonia.  The first rapid comes just before you enter the third canyon and is one of those where you just want to stay in the middle…avoiding any of the confusion to your left and right.  As you enter the canyon there is a small rapid followed by a big eddy on river left…catch this eddy if you don’t want to get swept into the narrow gap that is usually portaged.  The portage isn’t too arduous and sooner than you know it you’re back in the water ready to head downstream.

Sebastian in the 3rd canyon - Rory Woods

The final four rapids of the third canyon are all straightforward and we managed to make our way down just boat-scouting.  You still need to keep your wits about you as the Baker will surge and boil unexpectedly and the eddy lines can be very unforgiving.  There are some fun surf waves in this canyon and also it is more beautiful and much longer than the first.  You leave the canyon just as the River Chacabuco enters on River Left and there is a good take-out spot about 50m after the confluence though it does involve a good 20min or so hike straight up a hill!  Sometimes you have to earn your thrills.

Me in the 3rd canyon - Rory Woods

We spent 2 days on the Baker before heading down further South and 1 day on our return journey back North.  The first canyon remains incredibly intimidating but I did get redemption on the big rapid of the 1st canyon having a sweet line and running it head-dry…but just after I got flipped in the next big rapid and re-flipped by the huge waves as I tried to roll; The Baker reminding me who’s boss in these canyons and the condor still watching and waiting.

Thanks for the trip and photos Lee, Rory and Sebastian.

Looking back at the 3rd Canyon from the takeout - Rory Woods